Basic Tools for the Newbie

A frequent question on alt.home.repair asks, what is a basic set of tools for the novice/new homeowner.  The answers they get are a remarkable scatter of widely varying advice. Some people even suggest starting with table saws and routers.  Despite these big differences, the opinions seem to be strongly held.  Best I can figure, each person's individual experience has resulted in these firmly held, yet very different, opinions.  In face of this danger, I'm going to venture to give some advice.

At this point I should explain, one camp says, "Why buy any tools in advance. Wait 'til you need a tool--then buy it. This way you never buy anything you don't need."  I ask, what if it's Saturday night and water is spewing everywhere?

There's general agreement that cheap tools are a bad buy and can damage your work.  So, I am going to give a very rough estimate of what you should expect to pay for an acceptable quality item of each type. My complete starter set would cost you about $200.

I have tried to list these tools in order of need, starting with most essential.

Almost everyone agrees a first purchase would be screwdrivers. A minimum of three sizes of flat blade screwdrivers and two (a #1 & #2) Phillips drivers. -- $6 each individually or about $3-$4 each in a set.  The upper line of Stanley screwdrivers are usually quite good. Klein also makes good screwdrivers -- Lowes' carries Klein.  Buy Good Screwdrivers!  Cheap screwdrivers and wrenches may be the worst cheap tools there are.  Try to resist using your good screwdrivers as pry-bars or chisels -- get some bargin table screwdrives for this.

An ordinary 16oz claw hammer -- $15

Starting here opinions vary.

  The next tool I'd get is a 1" wide by 25' tape measure -- $9. A bright colored case will help you find it when you lay it down in a jumble of stuff.

  A flashlight

  A utility or box knife with a retractable blade -- can't remember price but, don't get the cheapest because the blade retractor can slip suddenly and risk your hands and what you're working on. Again, a colorful one is easier to locate. My current favorite is a big yellow Stanley model 10-989 but, they're slightly more expensive.

  A razor blade holder/scraper -- $3.  These things come in handy for scraping/cleaning all kinds of things, such as, windshield stickers, paint on windows, caulk on tubs/tile, and on-and-on.  Unfortunately the single-edge razor blades my kind uses have become obsolete so you have to buy them at specially for these scrapers at special prices.  If you have a style you think works better that mine send me a picture.

  A 12" flat-jaw, arc-joint plier (tongue and grove). They're called Channelocks because that was the original and traditional brand.  A problem with Channelocks is they scar up whatever you use them on. If you use them on a decorative object (such as a chrome plated faucet) they'll mar/ruin it. In theory you can wrap the object in something to protect it, but in my experience the jaws usually bite through to the metal.  A strap wrench may be the answer for decorative fixtures, but I've not used one enough to know how well they work.

I used to recommend the self-adjusting style sold by Sears under the name RoboGrip, but I don't any more.  Sometimes the self-adjusting feature slips, and RoboGrips won't work in as tight a space as the standard Channelock style, and it takes a bulker tool to get the same jaw opening (useful size).  So, I've gone back to suggesting the regular Channelock style as a starter tool.

Others suggest an adjustable (Crescent type) wrench (10-12"), instead of a arc-joint plier. I feel if you only have one, in a pinch, the arc-joint will do almost anything a wrench will do and, will do many things the wrench won't.  It may be more likely to scar the fitting, but it's "any port in a storm."

Note: I should explain at this point, my philosophy is, if you are only going to buy one size of a given adjustable tool, get a larger one (not a giant). That's why, in the above case I suggested the 12" over the 9" or 7". It will usually do the smaller jobs (albeit perhaps more clumsily), thus it will get you through a wider range of jobs. Others disagree with this, saying the smaller is likely to do most jobs and is more convenient to use.

A drain/toilet plunger (plumber's friend) -- $??

Now we have to talk about hand saws and this is where my experience clouds my advice. Many people say a hand saw is a basic tool. Yet, I didn't own a hand saw for my entire adult life until a few years ago. My first saw was a sabre/jig saw (~ $50) which I used for my few necessary sawing jobs. Some people swear by them, I tend to swear at them.  I still find it damn near impossible to get a smooth/regular/straight cut with these gadgets but, it did the crude cutting I needed until I bought a circular saw -- often called a 'Skill saw' because Skill either invented them or made them famous.  I wouldn't buy Skill brand today. For a circular saw, a lot of folks on alt.home.repair like the 6" Porter-Cable SawBoss at about $120.  I now own a SawBoss and I'm pleased with it.  With a circular saw, a saw guide and a little practice you can do almost any lumber or plywood cutting you need to do. I am not suggesting a circular saw is a basic tool but, if you progress to stage II of home repair you'll probably want to get one.  

If you decide to get a hand saw I suggest you consider the Stanley Contractor Grade Short Cut (15"/12 point) model 15-086 or similar. These small saws are easy to store and carry and will do most hand sawing jobs. Or, Just to confuse you, you may want to consider a Japanese saw.  I don't have one but am thinking of getting one because they have a growing number of advocates.  Here's a discussion of the merits of this style saw.  (Note: Yes, I know, these suggestions reverse my, 'Get the bigger adjustable wrench' philosophy, but after all, is a hand saw really a necessary basic tool. :-)

And finally some people swear a hacksaw is the best "only saw."  Hacksaws are intended for cutting metal and pipe, but they'll cut almost anything crudely.  They are sort of a manual sabre/jig saw -- cuts crude but can get you by in a pinch.  I use a hacksaw about once a year, but if it were my only saw I'm sure I'd use it more often.

A scratch awl -- ?$6? You can probably get by using an ice-pick for this but, the awl has more oomph.

A pair of ordinary 7" slip-joint pliers with wire cutting jaw -- $7

Now we come to the electric drill. Without question, the most useful and versatile power tool you will own. For your first drill I'd recommend Cordless drills are very convenient for regular users but, they're more expensive, heavier, with lower power and, if you seldom use them the battery is likely to be discharged when you need the drill.  Keyless chucks are convenient but, they tend to slip on hard drilling jobs so, for your only all-purpose drill you may want to stick to a key tightened chuck, or buy only the hex shank bits that can't slip -- see next paragraph..

With your drill you will need to buy a set of drill bits. I suggest you consider starting with one of the snap-in quick change hex-shank bit sets (such as Sears Speed Lok)  -- $20.  Other people make these things.  DeWalt does and they're probably better quality.  I know Black & Decker does, but as I explain elsewhere, I avoid B&D whenever possible.  This system is not only more convenient to use it also makes a keyless chuck less important.  If you plan to really get into do-it-yourself buy the largest set you can afford.  

Now you may want to consider a set of 1/4" sockets with a snap-on screwdriver type handle (can be used like nut-drivers) and a drill adapter that lets you run nuts (and hex head screws/bolts) on and off with your drill -- ?$12? for a set with 5 sockets, plus a dollar for a drill adapter.

A 10" curved jaw, locking plier -- Called Vise-Grip because they have a locking viselike grip and it's the brand name used by the inventor of this style tool. Vise-Grip may still be the best locking plier today and, they're reasonably priced. They lock/clamp on the item.  They will scar (bite into) the object and will cursh hollow objects, but you can grab the object so tight it simply will not slip. They are the only tool that will hold on tthght enough to break some objects loose.  When you're becoming desperate, out come the Vise-Grips.  You can also use them as a third hand or miniature vise to hold small objects.  I own 6 sizes and styles of Vise-Grip pliers.  $10

If you plan to do electrical work I suggest the following:

• This style wire stripper/cutter -- $10  I got my GB model GS-55 at Home Depot.  Klein is probably a better brand -- I think Lowe's carries Klein

• A no-contact voltage detector/sensor that lights or buzzes as you get near (without touching) a live wire.  One amoung several uses, it lets you verify you've turned off the power before working on a switch, fixture, outlet, etc.  Note:  Check it on a known live wire before each use to be sure it's working -- $15